Monday, April 28, 2014

HOCA LiFE

In general, teaching is a challenging profession— I have all sorts of crazy stateside classroom stories to prove that— but teaching in Turkey has its own particular set of challenges. There was a time when each of these things drove me a little crazy, but after eight months now, there is hardly anything that surprises me. After almost a full school year, I am now a full-fledged crazy English-language teacher, and I will attempt to share snapshots of my daily work life with you:

1. Names

When I first got to Turkey, learning to pronounce Turkish names intimidated me. As time went on however, I realized that there are a rather limited amount of super-popular Turkish names and that once I learned these, I was golden. I have anywhere from 1-3 Alis, Mustafas, Muhammads, Mehmets/Ahmets, Cans/Caners, Murats, Furkans, Kaans, Yusufs, Buraks, Emrah/Emres, Özgürs, Oğuzhans, Fatihs, Serkan/Serhans, Zeyneps, Sinems, Beyzas, and Kübras in each class. It also makes for an interesting point of comparison with the other Fulbright teachers who also have a billion of the same… 
            “All my Furkans are troublemakers”Zeyneps are the sweetest!” 

My name, on the other hand, is never "Ms." or "Mrs." anything. It's "Kealy Teacher," "Teacher," "Hocam" or sometimes when they get lazy, just "Kealy." Weird? Yes. A battle I wish to fight? Nope.

2. Classroom Troubleshooting for Beginners

Problem: Classroom is locked.  
Solution: You don’t have keys, so you should probably look around for the nearest custodian. She could be anywhere in the building… Good luck. 

Problem: There is an exam scheduled in your classroom, and no one told you.
 
Solution: You should probably herd all your students down four flights of stairs while on the phone with every teacher you can get a hold of to see if their classrooms are free.

Problem: No air-conditioning and the afternoon class is melting alive.
 
Solution: Attempt to have class outside, and after 15 minutes of fighting tooth and nail for students’ attention, give them an assignment they can do while smoking and dismiss them when they finish.

Problem: You got lost on your way to your classroom. Again. 

Solution: There is no choice but to retrace your steps and start again. Don’t worry, just go back down to the third floor, then down two more flights of stairs and you’ll find the fourth floor of the G block again…


3. "PAPERPENPENCIL"

This is the war-cry of my classroom. My students make fun of me for this all the time, but that still doesn’t mean that they remember to bring all or any of the above. Usually, the conversation goes something like this:

Me: On your desk please: Paper, Pen, Pencil! Two students are already writing down what’s on the board. Half the class is yelling up to the one girl in the front who brought a notebook, and she’s passing pages around, which are torn into smaller and smaller pieces until most everyone has a scrap of something. Four or five students just tear another page out of the back of their textbook.  
Me: (after explaining directions, to random student staring into space) Mehmet*, why aren’t you writing?  
Student: shrugs  
Me: Do you have paper? Pen? Pencil?  
Student: …Yok, hocam.  
Me: Okay… So you have a problem… How are you going to solve this problem…? Repeat for three or four students, per class period, then start process all over again tomorrow…
 
*Note: Not any of my real students' names...
 

4. Collecting Papers  

As you can predict from Point 3, when I ask for a written assignment, what I collect usually looks something like this:  



 
I also frequently have conversations about why you shouldn’t write emoticons, texting short-hand, or phrases like “blah blah blah” in academic writing.

5. IMZAT  

Classroom management is bound to be an issue when your class is a roomful of largely unmotivated adolescent men (mine are all Engineering students, and about 95% male*). What I didn’t expect, however, was for there to be little to no structured disciplinary system at the university… at all. So when students aren’t graded beyond exams and attendance, we have to get a little creative about the way we motivate/coerce our classes to some semblance of good behavior. The one thing we have some control over is their ability to sign in and out for each hour of class— thus the “imzat” or “signature” became a weapon. 

I can’t tell you how many angry students have stormed out after the same conversations: “No, I’m sorry, but you were more than 5 minutes late to the first hour of class. You know the rule, you lose one signature for today… ” or “You came in 45 minutes late and then refused to do your work. No, you cannot sign the attendance sheet for this hour. If you want to sleep, you are welcome to go home and sleep, but I cannot give you credit for being here.”

*I am really rather fortunate that my students are mostly respectful. In all seriousness though, there are certain aspects of teaching adolescent males in a patriarchal society that are problematic. Many Fulbrighters have experienced very real harassment from students or colleagues. This blog post by my friend Laurel, is an amazing description of the issue. Check it out!!



6. Teacher Talk  

You know you are an EFL (English as a Foreign Language) teacher if any of the following are true for you:
  • You cannot speak without using your hands: You’re part teacher, part mime, and you’ve found creative ways to signal even the most obscure words. You and your fellow teachers have even inadvertently developed the same signals for many words, and you’re convinced it should be a certified form of sign language. 
  • You’re trained to respond to blank looks: You see a flash of confusion, look of panic, or no one is making eye contact. You start over. Different words. Slower pace. More writing or hand gestures. Give an example. And repeat.
  • You speak in circulation and examples: After a long day of teaching, conversations with your housemates go as follows… “What would you like for dinner… to eat… We can eat çiğ köfte… we can eat çorba… we can cook dinner… what would you like to eat… for dinner?”
  • You’ve mostly lost the ability to correctly speak the language you teach: You also often struggle to distinguish between standard English, British English, and cultural Turklish… 
            Q: “When do you leave?”             
            A: “Three weeks later.”
            Q: “What will you do tomorrow?”  
            A: “At the weekend, I always go to the Saturday pazar.”  
            Q: “What did you do yesterday?”  
            A: “We traveled to Cappadocia. It was too much fun.”

But, when all is said and done, I love my job and my students, and I know I will dearly miss both when I leave. At the end of the day, while the craziness may be frustrating, it is also keeps things interesting, and while my students might be problematic, they are also entertaining, funny, and endearing. Every day brings a new challenge and a new opportunity, and there is certainly never a dull moment. :)

Sunday, April 27, 2014

LATELY...

Dear friends/family,

Sorry it’s been so long since my last post... Life and everything happened, as it tends to do.

I’m working on a few catch-up blogs, but in the mean time, here’s a preview...

THE LATEST OBSESSIONS OF MY TURKISH LIFE

1. Poetry 

A cafe that we go to gives you a slip of paper with a few lines of poetry every time you order Türk Kahvesi. This sparked my exploration of the world of Turkish poetry, which is one of my new obsessions as of late. Here’s bored doodling of one of my favorite poems from one of my favorite poets thus far:



 2. Music

Turkish music (...more specifically rap :) is my other unforeseen obssession lately. It’s probably the greatest thing ever. Recently I’ve been refining my preferences (including/apart from the Top 40 pop that we hear everywhere all the time) based on a running list of recommendations from friends and students. This playlist has a little of everything:



This playlist has a slightly higher concentration of my favorites:



Enjoy :) More to come soon!

Sunday, February 9, 2014

HOLIDAYS FOR DAYSSS

It’s been a while, so I will attempt to blitz-recap the past few months, via the major holidays: 

THANKSGIVING

Ironically enough, this Thanksgiving was probably one of my favorites to date despite the fact that I was celebrating it as an expat. It started with a very complicated attempt to make apple pie to share with my adult night class and Turkish colleagues. 


The crust was rolled out with a jar and it was deep-deep dish given that the only round pan in the house was a bread pan, but it was a hit nonetheless. It in fact sparked a tradition within my night class of someone bringing food to share each week. 

Çok ekmek in true Turkish style
We also traveled to Afyon (a small town in central-western Turkey, literally named "Opium" until the official name was changed to Afyonkarahisar or “Opium Black Fortress” in 2004— which I still find hilarious) to get together and celebrate with the Fulbrighters in western Turkey. There were about 30 ETAs, Turkish friends, and one cat crammed into the Afyon group’s apartment, as you can see in this adorable family photo… There was even a turkey, bussed all the way in from Bursa, where a Fulbrighter had a student whose family farmed the birds. 

CHRISTMAS


Valuable English vocabulary
Christmas in Balıkesir was nice and relatively uneventful. I made my university students listen to (and sing) Christmas carols each week of December— the perfect English comprehension lesson, sure, but really just an entertaining excuse to hear a roomful of adolescent Turkish males impersonate Frank Sinatra. Hilarious. I had to say goodbye to my classes for the rest of the year, surprisingly sad for as sassy as they are. My A1 class wanted a group picture: 


Christmas Eve was the night of my last class with my adult speaking class, so as per tradition we had lots of food. And several even brought me gifts! They are my extended Turkish family. :)



I found a dusty, vintage ’70s cookie press in the back of our apartment and some good ole American green food dye from a box of mysterious St. Patrick’s Day paraphernalia (repurposed as Christmas decorations), so I made a massive batch of my family’s traditional Christmas cookies.


Christmas Day was especially chill, I went for a run, then spent the rest of the day watching Elf, sipping peppermint mochas, and skyping friends and family. 

 

NEW YEARS

After our last exam we all headed to Istanbul, where we met up with other Fulbright friends. We used the extended time to expand our Istanbul experience from the typical coffee-Mango-and-Shake-Shake haunts to include the usual touristy circuit. Istanbul definitely lives up to the hype as one of the most amazing cities in the world.

The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet)
We were there through New Years, then parted ways for another month of adventures.

TATİLER

Our university had no classes between exams in December and the beginning of February, so for my tatil (or holiday) I spent some time in Ankara, and then went to Israel for a week. It was a much needed break from our everyday school schedule, and I even studied some Turkish (çok inanılmaz!).

View of Jerusalem Old City from the Mount of Olives
The week in Israel was a whirlwind and surprisingly far too short a time for such a tiny country. Apart from a few security fiascos in the airport (apparently living in a predominantly Muslim country raises red flags there... who knew?), the trip was incredibly smooth. I had a blast catching up with some Pepperdine friends who live in Tel Aviv, exploring Jerusalem, making new hotel friends, and attempting to absorb an overwhelming amount of sights of historical, spiritual, racial, and political importance. By far my favorite part of the trip was traveling to the West Bank, where I was completely floored by the injustices I saw and also inspired by the Palestinians I met and the stories they told.

EVDE

Now, I am evde (at home) and slowly trying to get back into the swing of things with our new university schedule, exciting new gym down the street (stories to come... be excited...), and the scary spectre of future job applications on the horizon.

More updates to come.

Görüşürüz!

Saturday, December 14, 2013

WINTER WONDERLAND

This is a story of a one little Californian who journeyed to a place called Balıkesir, Turkey and encountered a phenomenon she had never experienced before— a thing called winter. Sure, she had hiked through some snow and visited the fabled East Coast in the dead of slushy February a few times in years past, but winter had never been quite so close to her backyard.

Then one night, she witnessed snow falling softly on her way home from work, and went to bed with this sight out her window:


Only to wake up to this:


Literally overnight the surrounding city had been thrown into the dead of winter, and the poor girl had no idea what to do. Luckily she had caring roommates— all East-coasters well-versed in the art of winter— who patiently undertook teaching her how to function in the snow. Roommates who asked insightful questions like, “Is this made of wool or polyester?” when she attempted to pick out winter clothes, and who lent her functional boots when she realized her shoes were as unprepared as she was.

The girl was also blessed with sweet students, like those in her adult night class who advised her where to buy Turkish Winter Tea and who brought her beautiful woolen gloves from the handmade market


And slowly but surely the girl started to learn important life skills for the long days ahead— like how to walk over ice without falling on her face, how to layer and unlayer and relayer and unlayer clothes, and most importantly, how to enjoy the beauty of the snow.


Now at peace with the weather outside, she is (almost) fully prepared to hunker down and spend the cold dreary days crocheting yet another hat or scarf and drinking delicious salep (imagine hot Turkish horchata) next to their tiny fake Christmas tree*. Happily ever after.   



*Said Christmas tree was found tucked into the back of the water-heater closet— one of the many mysterious items left over from past Fulbrighters. Its lone decoration is a strand of glittery thread from the yarn nook we frequent alongside a billion other Turkish teyzes. The saleswoman was sweet enough to give it to us for free because she was so confused about why we were attempting to buy only 3 metres of yarn.

Sunday, November 24, 2013

UPDATES: fun running and salsa dancing— free time in Turkey

In the interest of not falling tooooo behind with blogging, here are a few odds and ends from my life these days:


"Ellerine sağlık"

 Turkish saying literally meaning ‘health for your hands’ said to the cook after a shared meal or gift of food.


After jealously drooling over the billions of pumpkin/fall/spiced baked goods posted by friends to Facebook and Pinterest, I was overjoyed to find that pumpkins had indeed popped up at our local farmer’s market one weekend. They were massive and rock hard, but they were pumpkins nonetheless. So I bought a kilo (they just busted out a saw and handed me a massive chunk), and then spent the next few days contemplating how exactly I was going to make pumpkin bread from an actual, raw chunk of pumpkin in the tiny toaster box posing as our oven.

It turned out better than I expected, and I brought some to share with my Turkish colleagues. Who were confused by the idea of “pumpkin bread.”

This exchange:
“If it is bread, in Turkey, it is not sweet.”
“…I’m not sure why it is called bread, come to think of it. We have banana bread too.”
“Banana?! In bread??”

Turned into this exchange:
“Ah, it is not bread. It is more like cake…”
“Mmm, it is like carrot cake!”
 

Fulbrighters Are Fit




A few weekends ago, a big group of Fulbright teachers from across Turkey all went to Istanbul for the Istanbul Marathon. Several ran various lengths of the race— most either the 10k or the 8k “Fun Run.” The Turkish Fulbright commission even jumped in and helped organize, giving us all blue “Fulbright” t-shirts, and Fun Run registration for those of us (like me) who missed initial sign-up.

Advertised as a “trans-continental marathon,” all three distance courses involved running from Asia to Europe via the Bosphorus Bridge. The Fun Run ended up being more of a Fun Walk/crowded-shuffle at times, but it was amazing nonetheless. Everyone was packed together, waving Turkish flags, chanting and cheering, eating simit and drinking tea, and stopping for numerous selfies over the strait. The energy was crazy, and it was a great way to spend the weekend catching up with Fulbright friends from all over.


"BIR IKI ÜÇ DÖRT, BIR IKI ÜÇ DÖRT"




So one day Sophia and Lisa went to get their hair trimmed, and the stylist who cut their hair happened to speak great English. Friendship was born. We later found out that this same friend’s secondary job is teaching Latin dance class at the “American Culture Center” in Balıkesir. Thus last Friday night, we found ourselves in a small room packed with other young Turks learning to tango and salsa, tripping over our feet, and counting out the beats in Turkish.

"Öğretmenler Günü" 
 
photo credit: the instagram queen herself, Lisa Hoca.
Today (Sunday) was Teacher’s Day in Turkey, and our department organized a group meal at a nice restaurant outside the city. The menu was fixed and included: ayran, soup, bread, köfte (lamb meatballs), chicken, rice, salad, and dessert (höşmerim and some sort of peynirli tatlı or cheese dessert).  (Note that “nice meal” in Turkey is synonymous with meat and that french fries are served with almost everything.)

Saturday, November 2, 2013

PANORAMAS


“If, then, I were asked for the most important advice I could give, that which I considered to be the most useful to the men of our century, I should simply say: in the name of God, stop a moment, cease your work, look around you.” 
– LEO TOLSTOY

Tuesday, October 22, 2013

TURKISH BY OSMOSIS: A PRACTICAL DICTIONARY

 
Who needs a dictionary when life introduces you to so many new words...
Living abroad is perfect for someone like me who, despite great intentions and a strong desire to learn a language, seem to lack the time, consistency, and resolve to actually study said language much. Luckily for us, words do come slowly via a process that my non-scientific self has termed osmosis. Here are a few of the words that experience has added to my budding Turkish vocabulary thus far:

bal: honey
As in, “Balıkesir”
I live in the small city named Balıkesir, which, for the longest time, my fellow Fulbrighters and I thought meant “fish slave or fish captive.” What fish and POWs had in common, we had no idea, but our limited knowledge of Turkish definitely identified “balık” as fish and Google translate had no other definitions for “esir.” It wasn’t until we invited some of our Turkish colleagues over for dinner that someone explained that the city name is actually old Turkish for “place where honey flows” or something of that nature. Much more pleasant in my opinion.

buçuk: half or 0.5, used with numbers only
As in, “Bir buçuk”
A few days into orientation in Ankara I knew the Turkish number system and just about nothing else, so I was feeling pretty confident when I went to try out my money-handling skills at a little convenience store near our hotel. But then I went to checkout… and the attendant at the counter told me my purchase rang up to “bir buçuk”… and wracking my brain as I did I couldn’t remember for the life of me what the word ‘buçuk’ meant. So I handed him one lira (bir lira) and then proceeded absent-mindedly search through my change purse to buy thinking time, after a short while of which he simply took pity on me and gestured to the 50 kuruş piece in my hand.

fıstık: literally nut, specifically peanuts
As in, “tuzlu fıstık”
My roommate Lisa found these snacks one day when we stopped to pick up groceries in town. They were Cheetos brand, but labeled as “fıstık,” which our baklava buying experience told us was pistachio. Thus, when she opened the package and we found them to be brown and peanut-like we were confused. A colleague later explained that the word for pistachio in its entirety is actually “antep fıstık,” as the green nuts are primarily grown in Gaziantep. “Fıstık” alone means nut but is also the word for peanut.

tane: pieces
As in, “Üç tane şeftali, lütfen.”
An important word to know to avoid the confusion of produce-sellers who keep trying to give you three kilos of peaches, when you try to explain you only want three.

tava: literally skillet, but also deep fried.
As in, “Midye Tava”
When my roommates and I went to Ayvalık, we stopped at a seaside restaurant hoping to split a snack on the water before finding cheaper food elsewhere. Mussels were a local specialty so we decided to split an order. The meze menu listed two types of mussels “cold” and “hot” in the English translation, or “midye dolmas” and “midye tava” in Turkish. We had tried midye dolmas— mussels stuffed with rice, a delicious street food— before and it was a chilly night, so we opted to try the hot mussels hoping for something a bit lighter. Thus we were all shocked when they brought out a heaping plate of breaded and deep-fried mussels. Since then we have been much more skeptical of the accuracy and specificity of translated menus…

zina: adultery
As in, “Noooooo hoca! Not zzzzina…”
One of the more outspoken students in my class is a boy named Sina, who stopped in the middle of an activity we were doing one day to school me in pronunciation. Several students took turns explaining and re-explaining: “No, no, no, hoca! SSSsina, not zina… Sina!” I was convinced that was what I had called him in the first place, but they were so adamant that I looked up the definition of the word later at the gym with my roommates and nearly died with laughter and embarrassment.